Egyptian Adventure

By Michelle Vojtisek

Y’allah Y’allah (Let’s go, let’s go)
I must confess that I did very little research on Egypt before I boarded the plane to Hurghada. I had a fantastic traveller’s guide (The Traveler’s Key to Ancient Egypt by John Anthony West), which I thought would clue me up during the ten hour flight. Unfortunately, a 1am flight tends to kill the excitement levels and, as it is, I slept through most of it.

An Egyptian Side-Dish

I had just spent two weeks in Prague with my mother, visiting our family there, and while it was nice to see them all again after ten years between visits, I was glad to be getting away for this side trip to Egypt. My aunt in Prague had organised a package tour to Egypt for the three of us – a much-needed holiday for us all. In the last hour of the flight  I cut my losses and skipped straight to the section called ‘Travel Tips’.

THE Top 4 Travel Tips for Egypt

"Don’t drink the water, don’t walk around on your own, expect delays, and learn to bargain. Never have four travel tips been truer!"

Hurghada

After going through the formalities of entry (filling out the entry forms, declarations, purchasing a visa for US$15) we were in the hands of our tour guides. Our tour group consisted other Czechs, and two Czech-speaking Australians (my mum and I). Our Egyptian guide packed us onto the bus and began telling us, in Czech, the plan for the rest of the day. Let me tell you right now, there is nothing stranger than hearing an Egyptian man speaking fluent Czech. Czech – arguably one of the hardest languages to learn – spoken by non-natives leaves a lot to be desired, but the guide pulled it off. I later learned that successful Egyptian tour guides are those that can speak fluent English, as well as being semi-fluent in different European languages. Czech, Russian, Serbian, Italian, French… the list goes on. And it’s not just the tour guides that can speak these languages; almost everyone in Hurghada can speak several languages (English being the strongest), because everyone in Hurghada is trying to sell you something.

The minibus drive from the airport to the hotel was, for me, an amazing experience. A real eye-opener, and the 45 minute trip was both a shock to the system and a marvel to behold. This entire city seemed to be a continuous construction site: roads half-tarred, buildings half-built (mostly you just see the framework of hundreds and hundreds of units), and new resorts in the making (or abandoned entirely).

Countless cars, taxis, buses and trucks choke up the streets. There appeared to be no road rules, no traffic lights and no courtesy. Sometimes, the bus would veer to the other side of the road (while there were oncoming cars) to overtake some of the backed-up traffic, or to avoid a bad part of the half-laid asphalt. Honking the horn is a normal part of the driving process, and it seems that the horn substitutes the use of indicators, give way signs, and overtaking other vehicles. By the time we reached the hotel, everyone’s knuckles were white from holding onto the railings too tightly. A few members of the group had already cracked out some home-made Slivovitz to calm the nerves.

It’s safe to say that all the hotels in Hurghada are mini resorts. With the Red Sea as a backdrop, you can’t fault the Egyptians for cashing in on what nature has to offer, even if the Red Sea is not the healthiest, at least towards the shore. Seeing a few dead tropical fish on the shoreline definitely put us off a lengthy swim in the sea (unfortunately, we found them only after we got out). That didn’t seem to bother the hundreds of Russian tourists who were staying at the same hotel, nor the dozens of local Egyptians circling the tourists as they tried to enjoy the sun on deckchairs.

The locals trying to sell services at the resort (massages, towels, Red Sea diving trips, day outings) are like vultures. They are impossible to avoid, and unless you want these services, they are likely to ruin your experience. My understanding is that they are not employed as hotel staff, they are relentless freelancers – and they mean business! No sooner do you tell one of them you are not interested, another will approach you with exactly the same service, repeated ad nauseum. I did not find an effective technique to deal with them, and for the two days we were there, most of us utilised the use of stealth to creep around the resort without having to run in to them.

Getting into the town centre is a must. Not just because it gives you reprieve from the local freelancers, but because you will get to experience what I believe to be part of the real Egypt. Hundreds of shops and stalls line the street, and it is the best chance to stock up on significantly  cheaper touristy things here than Cairo or Aswan. Hurghada is where I learned to haggle like a pro, and anyone who wants to buy just about anything in Egypt must also learn to haggle. The rule is to never take the first price offered. Ideally, ask for slightly less than half the offered price, then work out a middle ground. It helps to know how much the Egyptian pound is worth in US dollars so you can roughly work out an item’s worth. Remember that both parties should always agree on a price, and don’t buy something if you think you’re being ripped off. Politely saying ‘no thank you, I don’t think I want it for that price’ and walking away will generally have the seller running after you with a better deal.

Cairo - the Pyramids and the Museum

Surprisingly, waking up at 2am does not take much getting used to; it’s part of life in a tour group in Egypt. Packed lunches in hand, our group boarded the minibus and spent the next few hours dozing until meeting up with the police-escorted convoy. I am fairly certain that travelling long distances around Egypt with these convoys is mandatory, supposedly for the protection of the tourists. Hundreds of tour buses and rented cars join up at the convoy meeting location, which departs en masse at an agreed time. If you arrive late, there is often a several hour wait for the next convoy. The honking of car/bus horns is always in the background as each vehicle vies for prime positions in the convoy, constantly overtaking other vehicles at top speed.

Arriving in Cairo is an event in itself. The vehicles leave the convoy independently upon reaching the capital city, each going their separate way. Our Egyptian guide tells us that on the record, Cairo has a population of over 15 million people, but that in reality, the population is likely to be  significantly higher. To put it in perspective, Cairo – roughly the same size as Sydney – has almost 4 times the population living in the city and surrounding suburbs. This explains the extreme smog that perpetually blanketed the city during our stay there. It was a while before someone noticed the Pyramids at Giza were to the left of the freeway, barely visible through the haze.

"The pyramids are a wonder to behold. They are so immense, so much bigger than you could ever imagine."

The desert is a stark contrast to the colour and vibrancy of the tour buses and hundreds of tourists in the background. If you expect to share your ‘pyramids moment’ with no one, think again! I am sure that I am unwittingly in dozens of photos taken by tourists at this site, just as I too will have pictures of complete strangers blocking my shots of the Sphinx. These days, the Sphinx is protected from the eroding elements by the man-made sand dunes and scaffolding permanently surrounding the enclosure.

The Tourism Police, an ever-constant presence at all the historic sites, are particularly useful in chasing away some of the pushy merchants, though you can never avoid them entirely. Our guide told us not to buy papyrus, alabaster, or jewellery from these merchants, as you are likely to pay a high price for  poor, fake substitutes of the real thing. It is good advice, and save your money for the real thing.

Most of the members of our group went inside some of the smaller pyramids. The entrance is small, and the descending passageways are definitely not for the claustrophobic. Despite the lack of ventilation and fresh air, limited lighting, and lots of people all bent-backed trying to make their way to the tomb at the end, it is well worth the extra purchase. The hieroglyphs along the wall of the passageways are incredible, and the mini-journey (from entry, to travelling along the passageways, finally reaching the tomb, and coming out and breathing fresh air again) is akin to  completing a holy pilgrimage. Don’t take any photographs inside the pyramids or you will have your camera confiscated by the guards, and you will not get it back. Unless you bribe the guards with some serious baksheesh. Thankfully, I am not speaking from experience.

The Cairo Museum contains many items from the Pyramids and other ancient sites, and is definitely worth a visit. My group was only allocated two hours in which to see the entire museum – not nearly enough time – so it was hard to take everything in. Aside from being rushed to see as much as possible, I found that many exhibits in the museum were not labelled, or lacked relevant background information above the displays to describe the artefacts they housed. Ideally, I would have liked to spend an entire leisurely day to see all the exhibits, but it was not to be.

The bazaar markets of Khan El Khalily were our last stop in Cairo. Here we utilised our newly-acquired haggling skills (my aunt, in particular, had since become an expert at the game) to purchase all the things that represented Egypt to us. Scarabs made of wood and stone, shisha to smoke in the hookahs, necklaces and ornamental headwear, local music CDs, and other trinkets to take back home. Everyone wants to know your name and where you’re from… and how much you’d be willing to pay for a gaudy silver necklace.

"The Bazaar markets - everyone wants to know your name and where you’re from… and how much you’d be willing to pay for a gaudy silver necklace."

The First-Class Train to Azwan

While waiting for the train at the station, I was reminded of the traveller’s tip I read about earlier – expect delays. Our guide kept telling us that the train was sure to arrive in another ten minutes, then another ten minutes, then maybe another half hour. Remember this, folks: an Egyptian minute equals a regular half hour. Our group was in good spirits, and the train eventually arrived, a good two and a half hours after it was due. The definition of ‘first-class’ travel on trains varies in different countries, and although the train wasn’t exactly top notch, it was a nice change from the minibus. The seats could be adjusted similar to airplane seats, meals were served, and there was a toilet in each carriage. The basics are covered, and really, that’s all you need.

Unfortunately, I did not get to swim in the dam at Aswan, as I was outvoted in my group. When our Egyptian guide learned that I studied water for work, he offered to make a side trip to the dam just for me. By this stage, about a third of the group had contracted the ‘Pharaoh’s Curse’ (similar to ‘Delhi Belly’), and the majority wanted to either have lunch, or curl up in bed. I made up for it by running my hands along the river Nile, as our little sail boat skimmed along to the temple at Philae.

Abu Simbel

Without a doubt, Abu Simbel was the highlight of my trip to Egypt. We arrived at the crack of dawn, when there was a refreshing crispness in the desert air, and significantly less tourists milling around. Arriving at the entrance to the temple of Ramses, you are greeted by four large statues of Ramses carved out of the rock.

Despite the fact that this is not the original site of the temple (we were told that it was relocated well above the Aswan dam wall to preserve what was left), the statues hold incredible power, and I felt awed standing in their shadow. Our guide told us that these statues were used as a tactic to intimidate enemies from invading Egypt by showing the power of the Pharaoh.

The air inside the temple felt electric. Hieroglyphs on the wall depict battle scenes and Ramses’ victories in war. The inner sanctuary, the holy of the holies, is nothing short of awesome. My mum and I stood facing the statues on the back wall of the temple, which depicted four gods: three Egyptian gods, and Ramses, deified. We stood there for some time, taking in the power radiating from these rock-cut statues. It was here that I promised I would come back to Egypt, and see Abu Simbel at the special time of year when the sun’s rays enter the temple at dawn and shine on the four gods inside.

Com Obo and Edfu - Cruising the Nile

Most package tours include several days spent on a cruise of the Nile, taking in some sightseeing in between. This is a perfect time to rest and recharge, reading a good book on the top deck of the ship, watching the marvellous blood-red desert sunsets, or recovering from the Pharaoh’s Curse, as many of my group did. First stop Kom Ombo, a temple site dedicated to the crocodile-headed god, Sobek. Beautifully-designed columns abound at Kom Ombo, with beautiful carvings of lotuses, and there’s even a picture of the legendary Cleopatra on the wall.

"The entrance to Edfu, a temple dedicated to the god Horus, is almost on par with Abu Simbel. The front walls again show the power of Egypt, enormous images of a Pharaoh conquering his enemies with Horus looking on."

When we arrived, we had to battle with hundreds and hundreds of other tourists, all pushing to get the best photos. Most of us gave up and returned to the ship, and I again promised to come back at a time when I would be able to appreciate the power of this temple. At dinner that night, someone in the group said that whenever he closed his eyes, he could ‘see’ images of hieroglyphs flashing past, like a movie. Four or five of us also attested to this – perhaps the desert sun had temporarily burnt the hieroglyphs onto our retinas? Cool.

Luxor and Karnak

By now, everyone in my group was either suffering from the Pharaoh’s Curse, or in the early stages of recovery. It didn’t matter that we had all been brushing our teeth with bottled water, taking preventative tablets with meals, or “disinfecting” our stomachs with home-made Slivovitz.
Despite the overall ill-feeling, arriving at the Valley of the Kings was nothing short of breathtaking. This site houses the tombs of many pharaohs (including my favourite, Ramses) as well as the tombs of honoured high priests. There were ridiculously lengthy queues to enter some of the tombs towards the bottom of the Valley of the Kings, but it is possible to walk further up the site, away from the hordes, and have a tomb almost to yourself.

Upon arriving at Karnak, the first thing we noticed was the intense heat. I overheard one of the other tourists exclaiming that it was 56 degrees Celsius… in the shade! There were hardly any tourists at Karnak at this time, presumably because they had arrived at the wise time of dawn, when the heat was non-existent. The novelty of having to share this site with less tourists soon wore off, with our whole group making a beeline to the café in the shade.

After using up most of the water we brought with us, my aunt and I made our way to the stone statue of a large scarab beetle. Our guide told us that if we walked around the statue once, we would come back to Egypt within a year, three times would bring good luck, and seven times would bring wealth and prosperity. I told my aunt that I needed to get a new car when I returned to Sydney, so seven laps should do the trick. After one lap, my aunt asked me if it would be a better idea to just leave it at that, and to come back next year to try for seven. We managed to do three laps before heading back to the air-conditioned bus. Good luck is good enough for me!

Being part of a package tour group has major benefits: everything is planned for you according to a strict schedule, so you get to see many things in a short time. The package is affordable, and you are in a group with like-minded people who have a great sense of adventure. If you want to see Egypt, this is a great way to do it. It won’t break the bank, and although you might not be able to see all the sites you wanted to, you can always come back another time and pick up where you left off.

"It was difficult for me to say goodbye to Egypt when it was time to go. I felt I had only touched the surface, despite seeing so many temples, markets and museums in between the main stops. I had met some amazing people within my group, and it is difficult for me to come to terms with the fact that I won’t see any of them again.

My mum and I have every intention of going back to Egypt within the next three years to pick up where we left off, and come up with our own schedule. The papyrus artwork of a beautiful winged Isis hanging on my wall serves as a constant reminder of my promise to return soon."

Michelle Vojtisek - Travel Writer

"This entire city seemed to be a continuous construction site: roads half-tarred, buildings half-built (mostly you just see the framework of hundreds and hundreds of units), and new resorts in the making (or abandoned entirely)."

"Cairo was perpetually blanketed in smog during our stay there. It was a while before someone noticed the Pyramids at Giza were to the left of the freeway, barely visible through the haze."

"If you expect to share your ‘pyramids moment’ with no-one, think again!" - While Michelle refers to the quantity of tourists by the pyramids, she happily shared this experience with family.

"The Cairo Museum contains many items from the Pyramids and other ancient sites...I would have liked to spend an entire leisurely day to see all the exhibits, but it was not to be."

Unfortunately, I did not get to swim in the dam at Aswan, as I was outvoted in my group. When our Egyptian guide learned that I studied water for work, he offered to make a side trip to the dam just for me. By this stage, about a third of the group had contracted the ‘Pharaoh’s Curse’ (similar to ‘Delhi Belly’), and the majority wanted to either have lunch, or curl up in bed. I made up for it by running my hands along the river Nile, as our little sail boat skimmed along to the temple at Philae.

The air inside the temple felt electric. Hieroglyphs on the wall depict battle scenes and Ramses’ victories in war. The inner sanctuary, the holy of the holies, is nothing short of awesome... It was here that I promised I would come back to Egypt, and see Abu Simbel at the special time of year when the sun’s rays enter the temple at dawn and shine on the four gods inside.

"First stop Kom Ombo, a temple site dedicated to the crocodile-headed god, Sobek. Beautifully-designed columns abound at Kom Ombo, with beautiful carvings of lotus flowers, and there’s even a picture of the legendary Cleopatra on the wall."

Upon arriving at Karnak, the first thing we noticed was the intense heat. I overheard one of the other tourists exclaiming that it was 56 degrees Celsius… in the shade! There were hardly any tourists at Karnak at this time, presumably because they had arrived at the wise time of dawn, when the heat was non-existent. The novelty of having to share this site with less tourists soon wore off, with our whole group making a beeline to the café in the shade.

After using up most of the water we brought with us, my aunt and I made our way to the stone statue of a large scarab beetle. Our guide told us that if we walked around the statue once, we would come back to Egypt within a year, three times would bring good luck, and seven times would bring wealth and prosperity. I told my aunt that I needed to get a new car when I returned to Sydney, so seven laps should do the trick. After one lap, my aunt asked me if it would be a better idea to just leave it at that, and to come back next year to try for seven...Good luck is good enough for me!