Australia's Tallest Peak - Mount Kosciuszko

Champ's David B climbs Australia's tallest Peak, Mount Kosciuszko, via the famous Lakes Walk.

The Plan

I have climbed mountains in countries like Austria and Germany but had never conquered the highest peak in Australia; until now. Mount Kosciuszko is Australia's tallest peak and stands at a modest but respectable 2,228 meters (7,310 feet) and is a right of passage for all Australians and visitors here.

There is an easy way and a more difficult and scenic way to take in Australia's tallest peak. The famous "Lakes Walk" is the more difficult option and offers a magic and challenging trek that, for me, is far more of an achievement than the easy 8 km route from Thredbo.

The Lakes Walk was the decided route and an overnight stay on the mountain range to split up the ~25km trek from Charlotte Pass to the top of Mount Kosciuszko and back again sounded like the best option. It was settled. You can see the route we took on this trek on the map, below.

I always plan out what gear I need weil in advance. The air was dry, conditions were quite rugged with high glare and the weather bureau putting UV and wind at "extreme" levels. We were in for some rugged hiking in some of Australia's most beautiful territory.

Day 1: The Trek to Seaman's Hut

We arrived at Charlotte Pass around 11:00am after having made the 3.5 hour drive from Canberra. From Canberra, we took the Monaro Highway and then onward via Cooma to Charlotte Pass is an easy drive in the Autumn, Summer or Spring. In Winter, however, most cars need snow chains and to drive carefully on the winding alpine roads.

We unloaded our gear at Charlotte's Pass and did the usual stocktake to ensure nothing was missing. Quite importantly, we put on the sunscreen, hats and polarised sunglasses - the glare at 1500+ meters altitude is something you should protect yourself from.

We set off from Charlotte Pass. the lovely alpine skiing village and resort that is iconic to the Australian ski industry.

The path was well established and we were flanked by this uniquely Australian Alpine terrain. As you can see in the photo, below, the alpine wildflowers reminded us of the diverse beauty of what we would see over the next couple of days.

This part of the journey was easy on the legs and easy on the eyes. As we trekked toward Seaman's Hut, where we would camp for the night, I enjoyed the view of the terrain and the famous and iconic Snowy River.

The trail was lovely and the fresh air and unique flora helped me shed the baggage of work, city life and the "Info Age" we live in. It is truly liberating and once you are away in country like this, you feel a burden lifted from you.

It wasn't long before the Snowy River crossing was upon us. While I had heard of the legend and knew of its importance, I would be truly moved by this icon and when I saw its source later in the trip.

We stopped for a break, where I posed for this photo. As you can see from me doing my signature "squint" of the eyes, the UV is high and penetrates thin shirts. For Australians, "Slip, Slop, Slap" and for foreigners , remember to slip on some sunglasses, slop on some sunscreen and slap on a hat.

Sitting by the river and being able to drink a cupped hand of crystal clear mountain water and observe the view and the serene atmosphere was captivating.

We were off again, on the Lakes Walk; next stop, Seaman's Hut. The wind had picked up and it was getting very cold. The Australian Alps can be such a changeable environment and can often catch out the ill-prepared. I would learn more about this when we reached Seaman's Hut. There has been more than one person lost to this captivating and rugged place. The next hour was a steep uphill trek, into the wind, over rocky terrain. The path was good as was the conversation and we soon spotted Seaman's Hut.

Seamans's Hut - a stoic, very appealing building that exuded a warmth. It was a welcome site - it meant shelter from harsh weather that was setting in.

As I said before, the weather was setting in, so we made camp and sought refuge in Seaman's Hut. This hut is intended for emergency purposes, built in tribute to a skiier who, with a companion, tragically died in the harsh conditions of Australia's tallest mountain range. The text, below, tells their story. It is an extract of a sign to commemorate their lives and the hut, courtesy of the NSW Department of Environment and Heritage.

"Built as an emergency shelter in memory of Laurie Seaman...Seaman's Hut continues to provide shelter to injured or stranded visitors."

We took refuge from the wind outside and read about the hut and its origins. I felt privelaged to enjoy it, share in its history and take refuge from the cold. This hut really had personality, a life of its own.

A warm cup of tea and some snacks were had as the weather continued to turn foul. I took a photograph from the entrance to Seaman's Hut as the sun was going down and the wind, I would later find out, picked up to 100km/h (60mph)! The photo looks rugged and serene but rocks don't move in the wind!

We camped out in the extreme conditions and, a credit to our gear we survived through the night, waking to howling winds and sub-zero temperatures. I glanced down at my Reactor watch every hour or so, just waiting for the night to end. A new piece of kit, it proved a trusty friend with good luminosity and clear hands that meant no squinting to see what time it was.

Time did pass and we did in fact sleep until around 6:30am. We retreated back into Seaman's Hut where my litle Kovea camp stove warmed some tea and we ate breakfast. Rugged up like an eskimo, wearing a hat and beanie, my grinning morning smile reflects a man ready to take on a summit. Excitement was brewing along with our tea.

I was excited and keen to get to the summit of Mount Kosciuszko. We packed up camp and got ourselves organised quickly, hastened by the urge to head to the summit. With one last photo with Seaman's Hut, we bid fareweil to this unique little shelter and made our way to Rawson's Pass.

We could feel the cold as the temperature teetered on freezing. I knew that as we got moving and made a good pace, we would thaw out with a good bit of lung-pumping cardio. The morning mists shrouded the summit and the surrounding alpine region in a ghostly, ethereal veil. It was a very nice experience - cold, windy and a quick moving ethereal mist as we climbed to Australia's highest point.

The strange, beautiful and unqiue landscape of the Australian Alps turned on its best for us with this scene just moments before Rawson's Pass.

At Rawson's Pass, there was a public toilet block with facilities to cater to the masses who make the pilgrimage to Mount K every year. While it spoils the sense of remoteness, even worse is the reputed toilet paper and plastic bags one would find before the facilities were built.

With excitement and energy levels on the rise, we moved quickly from Rawson's Pass toward Mount K's summit. Aa we ascended a well-established path, the mist parted and gave me this beautiful view of the Mount Townsend range, just 100m from the summit. I fell in love with this place.

We pressed on, wanting to be the first group for the day. The pace picked up and we were soon facing the Mount Kosciuszko Summit Stone. Conquered! We unlimbered packs and sat down to eat, relax and enjoy Australia's highest point. We had the place to ourselves. You could hear your heart beat, see an amazing landscape and smell some of the world's freshest air. Magic.

A view from the top - Mount Kosciuszko conquered! The summit stone and its metal plaque at the highest point on the Australian Continent. A great experience.

We soaked up the view to Mount Townsend, Australia's second tallest mountain, and the surrounding region.

There was still much walking to be done, some 17kms, so we loaded up our packs and got underway. The pack was a welcome burden, warming my back and shielding it from the chilly morning alpine weather. I looked on to the terrain and enjoyed every moment and every step. You must experience the Australian Alps in your lifetime.

I looked back at Mount Kosciuszko and smiled back on me with spectacular low-lying cloud and beams of light. More magic for what was shaping up to be an amazing day.

The weather cleared and revealed this wonderful view, right to the Victorian Alps, visible as the last mountain range in the picture.

Our next destination was Lake Albina. After a steady trek, we descended the well-trod path back toward Charlotte's Pass, we arrived at our destination. Also known as Cirque Albina, this was a captivating glacial lake, unlike any I had seen before. Basically the pure glacial waters cascade from a cliff-edge. The view of Lake Albina speaks for itself - dramatic and beautiful.

Our next stop was Club Lake. The trail there would take us up in altitude along a long, winding alpine path. On this leg of the walk, I glanced back at Mount Kosciuszko and enjoyed this view or the mountain I had climbed that morning.

It was quite a heart-pumping trewk to get there but we enjoyed yet another glacial lake in Club Lake. Different to Cirque Albina but beautiful in its own way.

After the short break at Club Lake, we climbed along a winding alpine path which began a descent toward Blue Lake, the final stop before we made it back to Charlotte's Pass.

While we were starting to tire and we had panorama overload, Blue Lake did not disappoint. See for yourself.

Bad weather was beginning to set in. With grey skies and a chill wind blowing, we really got a move on back toward Charlotte's Pass. We crossed the Snowy River via a rocky ford and began the ascent to the Charlotte's Pass lookout. After a hard, steep climb, we were there. Mission accomplished.

I hope you enjoyed sharing in my journey to climb Mount Kosciuszko via the well-known "Lakes Walk. I hope it has inspired you to experience this very achievable trek for yourself. Let me leave you with some of my favourite shots, below.

- David B, Editor, Champ Magazine