Flustered on arrival…

My introduction to Spain can only be described as comical.  I flew into the capital Madrid on a direct flight from South America. Once I had cleared customs, I found an airport pay phone and dialed the number of a city hostel from my Guide Book. After spending the last ten months in South America backpacking, I felt comfortable conversing in basic Spanish. The ringing phone was answered by a male voice. “Buenos dias”. In my very best Spanish I politely introduced myself and asked whether any beds were available and the cost… deathly silence. I thought I had not been heard and repeated the introduction and question. The male voice replied, “Lo siento, yo no entiendo” which translates as, “Sorry, I don’t understand you”. I slowed my voice and enunciated each Spanish vowel in vocal slow motion for a third time. Again, the reply, “Lo siento, yo no entiendo”. Flustered I was about to hang up. The voice on the other end then asked, “Do you speak English?”. Yes, I can speak English… what a relief!

That initial phone call was a reality check of my Spanish speaking skills. The native tongue of Spain has key differences with the Latin American Spanish that I had learned in Ecuador and Bolivia. I was aware of some varying pronunciation techniques but did not realise that I would not be understood in Spain. On the train ride from the airport to my accommodation I flicked through a Spanish phrase book and set about tweaking my Spanish to suit the locals. This involved speaking with more of a ‘Thh’ sound instead of the ‘Sss’ I was familiar with. For example, a basic Spanish word such as thanks (gracias) is phonetically pronounced gra-si-as in South America, but in Spain the same word is pronounced gra-thi-as. Arriving at the hostel I had a laugh with the manager about our phone call. He tried to make me feel better by saying “I think we must have had a poor telephone connection”. He was kind enough to give me a single room the same cost as a dorm room. I thanked him for the free upgrade; “Gra-thi-as”. He understood me this time!

Puerta del Sol  (Gate of the Sun)

My hostel was only one block from the Puerta del Sol. I decided to make it the first stop on my list of first day activities.

The Puerta del Sol was originally the main gate on the city wall that surrounded Madrid  in the 15th century. The gate has been a famous rallying location for citizens in Spain’s history. Crowds traditionally gather here for New Years Eve tolling of the bells celebrations. At the front of the gate is a plaque on the footpath indicating kilómetro cero (kilometer zero) considered the symbolic centre of Spain.

At the Puerta del Sol I noticed a group of American tourists having their photo taken next to plaque kilómetro cero… or what they thought was the plaque! The plaque they gathered around was nothing more than a brass telephone pit access lid. The actual plaque is a simple, faded tile in the pedestrian footpath, about 10 meters from the brass lid. Many tourists would make this same mistake, especially considering a shiny brass lid looks more photogenic!

Plaza Mayor

A short walk from the Puerto del Sol is the popular Plaza Mayor. Traditional shops and cafes are located under porticos throughout the plaza. It is a popular spot to sit and have a drink under an umbrella, albeit a rather pricey drink!

Sipping on my beverage I began to visualise what these walls had borne witness to since the early 16th century. Bullfights, early games of soccer, markets and gruesome public executions all occurred in this plaza. During the Spanish Inquisition the plaza was the setting where auto de fe (acts of faith) were made against accused heretics who were executed in front of cheering crowds. The thought of accused heretics being burned at the stake sent a chill down my spine. I quickly finished my drink.

Palacio Real   (Kings Palace)

After a bite to eat at the El Corte Inglés shopping centre, it was time to explore one of the largest palaces in Western Europe. Palacio Real is the official residence of the King of Spain. The site of the palace dates back to the 10th century when a Moorish King first constructed a fortress here.

The Royal Palace has a collection of artefacts of great importance, including the Royal Armoury dating back to the 1200s and various items of furniture, art and tapestry. The palace is surrounded by spectacular gardens. The adjacent Moor Gardens (Campo del Moro) were named after an army of Moors who camped here before an unsuccessful attack on the Palace in the year 1109.

Standing in Campo del Moro it is not difficult to see why the Moors were not victorious in their attack. They were fighting up a steep slope towards the Palace walls. The Moor army would have had a better chance attacking from higher ground north of the Palace. And it was this location I headed to for my last site to visit for the day; for a taste of Egypt in the heart of Spain!

Templo de Debod  (Debod Temple)

The Templo de Debod is in direct contrast to the Madrid surrounds. It is an original 2nd century Egyptian Temple that was relocated piece by piece in 1968 to this hill-top location near the Palacio Real.

Cynics would suggest that the temple does not belong in Spain. But it would have been lost forever due to construction of a large dam project in Egypt in the 1960s. Spain assisted in an international program to save numerous Egyptian heritage sites from flood destruction. In gratitude, the Egyptian government gifted Spain the Templo de Debod.

The temple was built to honor the Egyptian gods Amon and Isis. Constructed in the ancient town of Debod (thus its name), it was later enlarged and redecorated by pharaohs and Roman emperors. The internal temple is small in size and a short tour showcased excellent photos of the 1960s project to deconstruct, box, ship and rebuild the temple. Not an easy task!

With the sun setting on Templo de Mod I decided to retire to my hostel to get an early night’s sleep before more exploring.

Museo del Ejército

(The Military Museum)

I spent my second day in Madrid exploring museums. My first stop was at the Museo del Ejército, rated one of the finest military museums in Europe. I was surprised at the lack of other tourists in the museum… in almost 2 hours exploring the museum I did not see one single other visitor! A worker at the museum gave me a guided tour of an amazing collection of artifacts. Swords from Moor kings, the cross that Columbus carried on his voyages, Reconquista era memorabilia, original canons from Spanish naval sailing ships and various items from the Spanish civil war.

I especially enjoyed viewing elaborate room size model recreations of battle scenes from Spanish wartime history. Any kid who has played with toy soldiers growing up would understand this fascination! The other amazing aspect was the building itself that housed the museum; a former 1800s era palace with ornate decorations on the ceilings. Sadly, I have read that the Museo del Ejército was due to close in January 2008; probably the result of poor patronage in direct competition with adjoining museums. Hopefully the priceless military collection finds a new home for public viewing.

Exiting the Museo del Ejército, I turned left and took the short downhill walk to the world famous Museo del Prado, joining the crowd of fellow tourists queuing at the entrance.

Museo del Prado 

(The Prado Museum)

The Museo del Prado is probably Madrid’s most popular tourist draw card. The museum displays the finest collection of European art from the 12th to 19th century. The core of its collection is based on the works donated by the Spanish Royal collection.

My knowledge of art history is basic, at best, but I was looking forward to viewing one painting in particular which I knew was on permanent display at Museo del Prado. It is famous work titled Las Meninas painted in 1656 by Diego Velázquez. I distinctly recall studying this painting in an Art Class when I was at high school. Las Meninas is described as “one of the most important paintings in Western art history”.

Entry into Museo del Prado is not straight forward. Security screening at the main entrance is comparable to a modern day airport. Once you have been screened by metal detectors, all bags must then be left at a check-in counter. The humourless security staff make an unannounced inspection of your bag once you hand it over. I had an unopened bottle of water in my bag. The security officer pointed at a sign “No Liquids Allowed” and promptly threw the bottle into a bin. The bin was overflowing with discarded unopened water bottles. It seemed an overreaction to not allow water bottles to be left at check-in. But I didn’t complain; this is the world of heightened security we now live in.

Once I had cleared security, it was time to relax and enjoy the contents of this amazing museum. For almost 4 hours I slowly made my way from room to room digesting some of worlds finest art works, sculptures and treasures. But my highlight was a visit to Room 12 at the Prado, exclusively dedicated to works by Diego Velázquez. Although I had seen prints of his Las Meninas in books, I was unaware of the sheer scale of the painting in real life. On canvas, it measures over 3 meters tall and is almost as wide. A giant masterpiece in every sense. The painting depicts the Spanish Royal family in a setting that blurs distinction between reality and illusion through the use of mirrors by artist Diego Velázquez. The complexity seen in the painting was the first of its kind to explore such unique concepts in fine detail, and its style has influenced artists the world over. Pablo Picasso painted a series of 58 interpretations based solely on Las Meninas.

Satisfied with enough war history and artwork for one day, I collected my bag at security. As I walked out I noticed a young French tourist was demanding her unopened water bottle back from a door guard. The guard remained unmoved, no doubt used to the same argument all day long. With the afternoon sun setting it was time to find a local park to unwind and buy myself a cool drink. 

Parque del Retiro

(The Retreat Park)

Established as a private ‘retreat’ for Royals in 1632, the Parque of Retiro is one of the most popular recreational locations for locals in Madrid.

I found a vendor selling a cool drink and managed to find a shady tree overlooking the lake and a huge statue of Spanish King Alfonso on horseback. As much as I enjoyed the tranquil surrounds it is not easy to enjoy any peace and quiet once you sit down in Parque del Retiro. Young African migrant youths roam the park in packs trying to sell tourists all sorts of items from pirate DVDs to various illegal substances! I decided it was best to keep moving and head to a local ‘tapas bar’ for a drink.

Tapas Bars

A tapas bar serves small dishes of food with each drink. The term tapas is said to relate to a Spanish King who was suffering an illness. The King found that by sipping wine and nibbling on snacks that he was able to recover to full health. The King then ordered that all taverns in Spain serve food snacks with drinks. Tapas snacks have now evolved into a cuisine. I walked into a small corner tapas bar near my hostel and enjoyed a selection of fish, chicken and beef tapas.

Sitting at the bar, I chewed on a small plate of calamari tapas. Reviewing my tourist map, I had now covered the popular tourist sites of Madrid. On both days I walked the streets the mid summer temperature had peaked at over 40 degrees Celsius. With more hot days forecast I decided it was time to escape the city and head towards a beach to cool off. Consulting my Guide Book, I chose the town of Málaga located directly south on the Mediterranean Costa del Sol. Conveniently, a high-speed line train ran directly between Madrid and Malaga.

Heading south on

the High-Speed Train 

The high-speed train trip to Málaga was an interesting experience. I had never traveled on a train faster than 100km/h. The ‘Alta Velocidad’ train can reach speeds over 250km/h on a straight track run.

Our train departed 20 minutes late from Madrid’s Atocha station. This delay was good news to nearby passengers who explained to me that if our train arrived more than 5 minutes late at Málaga, this entitled passengers a refund percentage on their fare. The refund amount increased in increments up to 60 minutes late. If a train ran this late it would mean a full ticket refund for every passenger!

I don’t know which marketing executive came up with the idea for late arrival ‘fare refunds’. It may create a more cost and time efficient Spanish rail system, but the pressure on train drivers to avoid losing time can create safety concerns. I witnessed this first hand on the 4 hour train journey to Málaga.

Initially it felt exhilarating to observe our train gather momentum towards its peak speeds. But an enjoyable journey turned into a wild ride. The driver maintained risky speeds around corner bends in the track, particularly as we neared Málaga. Passengers had to hold tightly onto their seats on some sharp corners. Even well traveled locals looked ashen faced as the train felt physically out of control at times.

We arrived at Málaga exactly on the scheduled arrival time. The train driver had made up the 20 minute starting delay by driving at breakneck speeds, probably above recommended limits. I decided I would book a bus back to Madrid in 5 days time. I’d rather travel safely, even if it meant doubling my travel journey time.

I put the eventful train trip behind me and set out to find accommodation and explore the beautiful town of Málaga.

Málaga and Costa del Sol

 Málaga is a picturesque town situated on the southern Mediterranean coast. The town is rich in history as it has been occupied since the 8th century by both Moorish and Spanish Kingdoms. It is now a town that is the gateway for tourists visiting the Costa del Sol (Sunshine Coast). This ‘gateway’ is facilitated by Málaga International Airport providing direct access for holiday makers all over Europe, particularly hordes of Englanders seeking some sun and quality beach time!

I found lodgings in the old city centre characterised by narrow cobbled streets lined with cafes and shops. The first place I visited is the towns main tourist draw card; the home where Pablo Picasso was born and raised. It is now a museum dedicated to his life with photos and some of his paintings and sculptures. A very impressive memorial dedicated to a true great in modern day history.

The next couple of days I found time to relax on the beach and explore the local landmarks. A huge castle called the Gibralfaro overlooks Málaga. It provided excellent views overlooking the town and coastline. The other popular attraction is the local bull fighting arena. I did not see a bull fight but had a chance to watch the Matadors in training. The Matadors practice their skill by fighting a fake bull with horns on a wheeled contraption that and can be twisted in various directions of attack. The arena also had a small museum showcasing bull fighting in Málaga.

Cueva de Nerja  (Cave of Nerja)

A short day trip from Málaga took me to the, “Second most popular tourist attraction in Spain” to quote my Guide Book. After reading that quote I should have known I was heading into a tourist trap!

This attraction was the “Cueva de Nerja”. Discovered in 1959 by schoolboys hunting bats, the Cave of Nerja is a series of caves covering almost 4 km in length, which contain paleolithic paintings of Dolphins providing proof of humans living in the region around 25,000 B.C.

Aspects of the Nerja cave tour were impressive. 200 feet high ceilings with gigantic jagged stalactite and stalagmite formations are some of the largest examples in the world. The contrast of colours in the cave under spotlights also provided an interesting backdrop.

But negatives experiences on the cave tour outweighed the positives. Tourist access is limited to only one third of the caves resulting in overcrowding with busloads of travelers. Metal gangways and a stage amphitheater built to make the caves ‘tourist accessible’ only contribute in visually detracting from the natural aspect of the caves.

The other ‘tourist trap’ aspect was advice by cave tour guides that you cannot take any photographs in the cave due to insufficient lighting. But then on the tour a professional photographer appears unannounced and takes your photo at random. When you exit the cave tour half an hour later, photos of you on the tour are ‘presented for purchase’ at grossly inflated prices.

I have since read that tourists can now do an after hours advanced group tour of the entire Nerja Cave system with caving professionals. In hindsight, that would have been my preferred tour and would have been more adventurous than walking along metal gangways under unmovable spotlights.

But the slight disappointment of the Cueva de Nerja tour was quickly forgotten. The next day was to be the highlight of my entire trip to Spain.  

The Alhambra

One of the world’s most famous buildings is the ‘Alhambra’ located overlooking the city of Granada. The Alhambra is the finest example of an intact palace complex from the Moorish Kingdom rule in Spain. Tickets to visit the Alhambra are so popular that tourists need to book days in advance during high season and visits are limited to either a morning or afternoon session. 

I had to pre-purchase my Alhambra tourist ticket in Málaga at a local bank branch. Securing a ticket is not an easy process with various sections of the Alhambra complex requiring access at specific times of the day. My Spanish pronunciation had improved since the Madrid phone episode, so I was able to correctly advise the bank teller the Alhambra tour booking I desired.

Arriving by bus to Granada, the red walls of the Alhambra were clearly visible above the city in the shadow of the spectacular Sierra Nevada mountain range. The building derived its name from the Arabic word Al-hamra which translates as “red fortress”. Created originally by Moorish Kings for military purposes, the Alhambra is an "alcazaba" (fortress), an "alcázar" (palace) and a small "medina" (city), all in one.

Walking up the steep road towards the Alhambra entrance there is no sense that there would be anything remarkable behind these harsh red stained outer walls. Some experts speculate that the visually nondescript exterior wall design was a deliberate architectural ploy by the Moors to disguise the rich secrets that lay within.

I show my ticket at the entrance gate. The attendant advises me that I cannot enter the Nasrid Palace section until my specified time on the ticket. This is to avoid crowding in the palace and allow the smooth flow of crowds through the complex. With map in hand I head towards the Generalife section of the Alhambra.

Alhambra Generalife

 This section of the complex is the known as the summer estate of the Palace. The Generalife became a place of leisure for kings of Granada when they wanted to get away from the official affairs of the palace.

The gardens of Generalife are one of the oldest examples of original Moorish gardens still in existence. The main building is the Patio de la Acequia. This estate contains a long pool bordered by flowerbeds, fountains and pavilions. Walking through the Generalife garden is a sensory experience as blossomed flowers produce a powerful scented fragrance. The Patio tower provides a spectacular view towards Granada and the Sierra snow covered mountain tops. 

I can understand why the Kings would choose to relax in such perfect surrounds. Calming flower scents, a soothing pool and a fabulous view. What more could you ask for at a holiday house within your own palace!

After 2 hours exploring at Generalife I approached the entrance of the Nasrid Palaces in anticipation of my specified time of entry.

Alhambra Nasrid Palaces

Many consider the Nasrid Palaces to be the highlight of the Alhambra. Walking through the main palace doors, you realise you have entered into realms of Islamic Royalty beyond comprehension!

These Royal Palaces consist of a number of brilliantly designed and decorated function rooms and courtyards that were used by the Muslim rulers for various residential purposes. Each room is designed with its own theme with an overtly feminine influence.
The Patio de los Leones is probably the most popular setting in the entire Alhambra. This  is the ‘postcard’ photo every tourist wants to capture.  It is so called because of the twelve lions that spit jets of water and form part of the fountain in the middle of the patio. A big dodecagon-shaped basin rests on top of these twelve lions that surround it. This white, marble fountain is one of the most important examples of Muslim sculpture.
Decorations throughout the palace rooms are perfect examples of Muslim influenced designs

Christian decorations are also incorporated into some of the rooms, including the Patio de los Leones, recognizing Muslim Kings friendships with Christian Kings of the period.

After taking at least 50 photographs within the Nasrid Palace, it was time to buy some new batteries for my camera and explore the final section of the Alhambra; the military fortress called the Alcazaba.

Alhambra Alcazaba

The front line of defence for the Alhambra is the Alcazaba (fortress). This is the oldest section of the Alhambra and was where the Royals resided until the Nasrid Palaces were constructed. Many a fierce battle was fought from the three towers of the Alcazaba. These towers now provide the best views over both the Alhambra and out towards the city of Granda and surrounding countryside.

The last Muslim King of the Alhambra (King Boabdil) was finally defeated by Spanish Catholic Monarchs in 1492. His fate in defeat was permanent exile to Muslim lands. As I stood on the top of the Alcazaba tower I visualised the famous scene of King Boabil and his royals heading into exile below these tower walls.

History records that the Muslim royal party moved south toward exile watched by the new Christian Rulers of the Alhambra. King Boabdil reined in his horse and looked back towards the Alhambra for one last time. He burst into tears. Legend has it that King Boabdil’s unsympathetic mother said to him "You do well son, to weep like a woman for what you could not defend like a man."  What an amazing scene it would have been to witness. 

It was now closing time at the Alhambra and I felt that I had learned more about world history in six hours than I had learned in a lifetime sitting in any classroom. A truly remarkable period of mankind that you can touch and smell standing behind these giant red walls.

Departure twist

As planned, I decided against catching the High Speed train, and returned by night bus to Madrid to continue the next leg of my Round-the-World adventure.

At Madrid airport the next day I checked my travel email account. There was an email from my family in Australia. My jaw dropped. The message read as follows:

“Hi Nick, I hope you weren’t traveling on that High Speed train that crashed in southern Spain yesterday. The news reported that dozens of  people may be killed. Maybe send us an email to let us know you are ok… just in case”
 
The email was a strange way to conclude my Spain trip. I don’t think I would have ever been booked on the train that crashed (not far from Málaga). But it was surreal that I had a gut feeling to avoid traveling on a High Speed train line in favour of the longer bus trip.

"My advice to any fellow travelers. out there is, always trust your gut feel."

- Nick Kennedy, Travel Writer.

Adventurer Nick Kennedy reprises his travel writer role for Champ Magazine. He writes about his rich experiences in Spain, including the exotic Alhambra. This is a winning competition entry that has seen Nick receive two new pairs of Bright Eyes Australia Sunglasses - congrats Nick!

This witty, real and interesting tale is well worth reading to excite, inspire and advise.

- David B, Editor, Champ Magazine

Exploring Madrid on foot

Madrid is renowned for its abundance of palaces, plazas, museums and parks. The majority of Madrid’s well known attractions are compacted within the heart of the city. This makes it convenient to explore most of the popular sights entirely on foot. Over two full days I strolled leisurely through the city taking in some famous sites.

The Puerta del Sol was originally the main gate on the city wall that surrounded Madrid  in the 15th century.

This plaque on the footpath indicates the symbolic centre of Spain. It is the unique, central reference point for the Nation’s entire road numbering system. 

This rectangular shaped plaza is enclosed on all sides by multi-level residential buildings, creating an imposing stadium-like feel.

The Spanish Inquisition gives Spain somewhat of a dark past. From 1480 to 1834, Catholic Inquisitors such as Tomas de Torquemada were on a mission to root out and eliminate heresy - anything that conflicted with the Catholic Church . There are numerous sites over the almost 400-year Inquisition era where "heretics" were tortured and burned. The Plaza Mayor is but one of them.

Ferdinand II of Aragon and Isabella I of Castille - patriach and matriach of the Spanish Inquisition. They established a fear and control over their people and empire, a legacy of almost 400 years.

Madrid's Templo de Bodo is one of the few works of true Egyptian architecture that can be viewed outside of Egypt .

This massive sword is both a centrepiece for the museum and symbol of Spain's former military might that is on show at the Museo del Ejército.

The famous Las Meninas by Diego Velázquez. This impressive piece is over 3 meters tall and almost as wide.

The Museo del Prado has more work featuring the little girl in the Las Meninas masterpiece - Infanta Margarita (Margarita Teresa de España). She would play a key role in linking the Spanish Royal Family to the Austrian Habsburg Royal Family. A critical alliance that saw much prosperity for the Spanish Empire.

The park is crowded with families walking, joggers, busker musicians, fortune tellers and ice cream sellers. A popular activity is couples hiring a small rowing boat to take on the artificial lake in the centre of the Park.

The ‘Alta Velocidad’ train - although it looks like something out of Gotham City, this thing is for real and can reach speeds of over 250km/h.

Malaga is filled with beautiful architecture and design that is both foreign in its influences but makes it quintessentially Spanish.

Spain is proud of its bullfighting history. One shrine to this national tradition is in Málaga. This museum exhibit features photos of a dramatic incident of a bullfighter in the 1960s injured by a rampaging bull. The bull won that fight!

Despite being a little bit of a "tourist trap", these caves were very impressive. With rock paintings that date back to 25,000 B.C, this is both an impressive geological masterpiece and a monument to cave-dwelling mankind.

The Moors -

Architects of Alhambra

The Moors were both fierce warriors and skilled artisans. Muslims from the Kingdom of Maure (Where Morocco is today), the Moors attempted to conquer and colonise Spain, Corsica the UK and other parts of Europe. The Moors invaded Spain's Iberian Peninsula, colonising and remaining into the 1500s. After this time, there was a rapid decline due to the Inquisition and any Moorish statehood or fiefdoms were lost, absorbed into the mainstream Spanish Empire.

Nick looks out from a distinctly Moorish styled walkway. Islamic influences reached across Europe through the Moors and Turks and shaped "Central European" architectures of today.

The distinctly Muslim arched windows open onto courtyards and gardens - beautiful, orderly, serene.

The Patio de los Leones offers visitors the ‘postcard’ photo everyone wants to capture.  It is so called because of the twelve lions (background) that spit jets of water and form part of the fountain in the middle of the patio.

It can be very busy in Alhambra - you will just have to accept everyone is there for the same reason and share the experience.

Even though the fortress "Alhambra Alcazaba", is for defence, this fountain in its finery and artistic expression were also accommodated. This exemplifies the duality to the Moorish legacy.